If you have not heard of Techné Instruments,
you are missing out on one of the most intriguing independent watch
makers. Based in Switzerland, Techné produces quality aviation themed
watches at appealing prices - a combination The Time Bum finds
irresistible. Even more appealing was this little note on their site:
"Thanks to improvements in our logistics, we have been able to slightly
reduce most of our prices." Now that is statement I like to see. Frugality firmly established, I sampled the $120 Ref. 280 Merlin, and found it to be one of the best bargains out there.

"Merlin" evokes both the Arthurian Wizard and the British warplane, but
given the watch maker's avian naming convention (Goshawk, Sparrow Hawk),
I'm betting it refers to the falcon otherwise known as the Pigeon Hawk.
The watch has a vintage look to its design with poire squélette
hands, and arrows to indicate day and date. Unlike many quartz watches
in this price range, every one of those hands lands dead on its
markers, every time. Minute and hour markers ring the dial with seconds
indicated by Arabic numbers in increments of five around the outermost
part of the dial. The lone Arabic hour marker is 12, sitting just below
a narrow inverted triangle at the top of the dial. Below it is the
script Techné brand and Principo beneath in fine block letters. The
layout and design would not be out of place on a pocket watch.
The vintage theme is carried in the case design as well. It is 38mm
excluding the onion crown, and only 10mm thick, owing to the Seiko VD78
quartz movement that drives it. Despite its modest dimensions, the
watch makes the most of its size. Wrist presence is enhanced by a dial
that stretches to a slim bezel at the edge of the case, a domed mineral
crystal, and long tapered lugs resulting in an overall length of just
over 42mm. The result is a watch that will slip easily under a shirt
cuff, but will never be mistaken for a woman's size. The
case is brushed stainless steel, which is appropriate for the aviation
theme. The case back is engraved with the brand, model, serial number,
technical information, and the maxim "Ars Longa, Vita Brevis" (Art is Long, Life is Short). Water
resistance is only 50m, but I suppose if a pilot suddenly needs water
resistance, the time of day is the least of his worries.

The
Merlin takes a 20mm strap, and the long lugs provide ample room for any
number of straps. I found I liked the Techné strap so much, I actually
bought more. The Merlin came on a shaved cowhide with contrasting
stitching that tapers to an 18mm engraved buckle with the same finish as
the case. It not only looks good on this watch, but also on others in
my collection. For $25, it was worth getting another. Techné also
offers nylon NATOs, oiled calfskin, and riveted straps. Of course, if you
have read any of my reviews, you know I can't resist a strap swap. As
nice as these stock straps may be, I will also wear it on a Hirsch black
buffalo with white stitching on those days when black shoes are
required. Unlike
many military style watches, I found the Merlin to be quite versatile,
and is easy to wear every day. Although it is not a dress watch, its
antique appearance and slight dimensions work easily with a suit and tie
when it is on an oiled strap. The cowhide pairs beautifully with
tweed, khakis, and suede bucks. A nylon NATO puts it squarely in jeans
and polo territory.
If the $120 three sub-dial Ref. 280 with leather strap is a bargain, then the single subdial Ref. 249 starting at $80 on a NATO, is an
absolute steal. Either way, you are getting vintage military looks, an
elegant shape, an attractive strap, and a quality movement at a highly
competitive price.
Pro: Strong value, lovely looks.
Con: Only 50m water resistance.
Sum: Put it on a suede strap and wear it everywhere but in the pool.





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